I wanted to make an elegant, simple lap rug in dark tones, that would suit a modern household, and that a guy (my brother) would like — white and lacy was definitely out. It needed to be a quick knit, and a simple pattern with enough interesting bits that I didn’t go nuts. I also didn’t want to have to sew anything together at the end. This rug delivers.
An Easy Knit : suitable for beginners
- 8 x 50g balls of an Aran or Worsted weight / 10 ply wool blend. I used
Paton’s Inca, colourway 7008 (58 metres / 63 yards per ball). Inca is a 50%
wool, 30% acrylic, and 20% alpaca blend.
You might want to choose a yarn that can be washed easily, especially if this is a gift for non-knitters who might just chuck it in the washing machine!
- 6 or 7 mm needles; an 80 cm circular needle works well (knitting back and forth, not in the round)
- 2 stitch markers
- Darning needle
Gauge: About 10 stitches : 10 cm / 4″ — but gauge is not important (isn’t that nice for a change?)
Finished size: About 70 x 120 cm (26″ x 47″)
- K : knit
- P : purl
- wyif : with yarn in front
- slip 1 : slip one stitch from the left hand needle to the right hand needle without knitting it
- RS : right side of work facing you
- WS : wrong side of work facing you
- LH : left hand
You can, of course, make this longer or wider very easily, as the mood takes you. Simply cast on more stitches for extra width, and knit more rows for extra length. The nice thing about having only 69 stitches on the needles is the rows fit onto one needle (no need for sewing panels together at the end), and they’re very fast to knit. If you put in a few hours’ knitting every night, you could easily finish this in a week or two.
Plain English translation of (K1, wyif, slip 1) — this means that first you knit 1 stitch. Then bring the yarn to the front of your work between the needles (not over the needle, which would form a loop), slip the next stitch from the left to right needle, and then move the yarn to the back of the work again (again, between the needles, not over them) ready to do the next knit stitch. The end effect is to have a horizontal strand of yarn sitting in front of the stitch you’ve slipped.
These techniques are illustrated nicely on the Knitting Help web site.
- Cast on 69 stitches.
- Row 1: Purl (WS)
- Row 2 (RS) : (K1, wyif, slip 1, return the yarn back to back of work), repeat to last stitch, K1
- Row 3 (WS) : Purl
- Row 4 (RS) : K1, (K1, wyif, slip 1), repeat to end of row
- Row 5 (WS) : Purl
- Rows 6–13: Repeat Rows 2–5
- Row 14 (RS) : (K1, wyif, slip 1) 4 times, K 53, (wyif, slip 1, K1) 4 times
- Row 15 (WS) : Purl
- Row 16 (RS) : K1, (K1, wyif, slip 1) 3 times, K1. (K1, P1) to last 9 sts. K1 (K1, wyif, slip 1) 3 times, K2
- Row 17 (WS) : Purl
- Repeat Rows 14–17 until you get to a length of about 7 cm / 3″ from the desired final length
- Repeat Rows 2–13 as written above
- Bind off. A nice one is K1, (slip stitch back to LH needle, K2tog), repeat to end. Cut yarn, and pull tail through last stitch.
- Darn in all those ends!
- Block if so desired, then snuggle up with it and a loved one on the couch and stay cosy warm all winter!
Concise instructions for more experienced knitters
This is basically a Purl Ridges body with a Linen Ridges border. Cast on 69 sts. Knit 12 rows of Linen Ridges, then knit the length you want keeping 8 sts at the start and end of each row in Linen Ridges, and with Purl Ridges in between. Then 12 rows of Linen Ridges at the end. Then do a stretchy bind off.
Border Pattern : Linen Ridges
- Row 1: Purl
- Row 2: K1, *(wyif slip 1, K1) repeat from * to end
- Row 3: Purl
- Row 4: Wyif sl 1 *(K1, wyib slip 1), repeat from * to end
Body Pattern : Purl Ridges
- Row 1 (RS) : Knit
- Row 2 (WS) : Purl
- Row 3 (RS) : (K1, P1) across row
© Denise Sutherland. For personal use only.